The paved road runs well past Secret Beach and keeps going north of that, though the surface deteriorates the further you go. Most visitors turn around at or before Secret Beach. Beyond it you are into rougher road and much thinner development.
Ambergris Caye is long and thin, and there is essentially one road. It runs north from town over a bridge and keeps going for miles, and it runs south from town past the airstrip until it stops. That is the whole geography, and it makes the island unusually easy to understand.
What follows is how we describe it to people at handover, which is the version that has been tested on a few thousand visitors.
The island in four lines
- Town: three streets, slow, park and walk.
- North of the bridge: resorts, beach bars, then Secret Beach. Half to a full day.
- South of town: the airstrip, quieter resorts, and the end of the road. A couple of hours.
- Speed limits: low, and enforced. 10 mph through town is slower than it feels.
San Pedro Town
Three parallel streets: Barrier Reef Drive nearest the sea, Pescador Drive in the middle, Angel Coral Street at the back. Everyone still calls them Front, Middle and Back Street.
Driving in town is slow and busy, with pedestrians, bicycles, delivery carts and dogs sharing the same space. That is normal, and the way to handle it is simply to go slowly. Nobody here is in a hurry and it is bad form to act like you are.
Park with all four wheels off the roadway. A red painted kerb means no parking, taxi zones are for taxis, and do not park within about thirty feet of a corner. Our rules and regulations page has the full list and it is worth two minutes before you set off.
Driving North: The Main Event
This is the drive people remember. Head north out of town and you reach the Sir Barry Bowen bridge over the river channel. It is a small toll bridge, one lane each way, and there is often a short queue.
Over the bridge the character changes immediately. The road opens up, the development thins out, and you start passing resorts, restaurants and beach bars with docks running out into the water. Several of them are destinations in their own right: swings in the sea, palapa roofs, and not much interest in whether you order anything quickly.
Keep going and the road eventually reaches the turn off west across the island to Secret Beach on the lagoon side, which has its own guide here because it needs one.
Town to bridge
5 min
Bridge to Secret Beach
25–35 min
Time to allow
Half a day
Bridge toll
Included in our rentals
Do this drive at least twice if you are here a week: once to get to Secret Beach, and once just to stop at whatever you drove past the first time. The second one is usually the better day.
Driving South
South of town the road runs down Coconut Drive, past the airstrip, and on through a quieter stretch of resorts and residential development until the road runs out.
It is a shorter trip and a gentler one. There is less to stop for than up north, but it is also far less busy, and the southern end has some of the better beachfront on the east side. If the north road is heaving on a Sunday, go south instead.
This is also the run you will do on your last morning, because the airstrip is on it. Leave a little more time than you think for the bridge if you are coming from the north.
Planning the Two Runs
Two drives cover the island, and they want different amounts of time.
| Run | Allow | Set off | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| North to Secret Beach | A full day | Before 9am | Beat the bridge queue and the crowd, and get back before everybody leaves at once |
| North, bars only | Half a day | Early afternoon | The beach bars are better late in the day, and you get sunset on the way back |
| South to the end of the road | Two to three hours | Anytime | Shorter and quieter, and rarely busy even in high season |
| Town | An evening | After 5pm | Cooler, and the town comes alive. Park once and walk |
Parking, Properly
Parking is the thing visitors get wrong most often, and the one with actual consequences.
- All four wheels off the roadway. The roads are narrow and a cart sticking out blocks a lane.
- Not within about thirty feet of a corner. Sightlines at junctions here are poor enough already.
- A red kerb means no parking. It is painted for a reason and it is enforced.
- Taxi zones are for taxis. Blocking one is the quickest way to annoy the people whose island this is.
- Take the key. Every time, even for two minutes outside a shop. Our carts carry an anti theft lock bar, so use it.
If Something Goes Wrong
Carts are simple machines and they mostly behave, but they are also working vehicles on a salty island. If yours will not start, picks up a flat, or makes a noise it was not making yesterday, stop and call the number on your paperwork.
Do not attempt a roadside repair, and do not keep driving something that has developed a new sound. We keep mechanics reachable around the clock, and if a cart cannot be put right where it stands we bring a different one out to you. On an island this is a normal part of the week rather than a crisis.
Fuel
There are fuel stations in and around town. A golf cart tank takes you a very long way at the speeds involved: you can drive the island end to end and back without thinking about it.
Return the cart with roughly the fuel it had when you got it. That is the deal everywhere on the island and nobody is precise about it to the litre.
Driving After Dark
Use your lights. Long stretches of the road north are unlit, and there are cyclists and pedestrians on it with no lights of their own. Go slower than you would in daylight.
The other thing to say plainly: drinking and driving is treated exactly as it is in a car, and the police here do enforce it on golf carts. If the plan for the evening involves the bars on the north road, work out in advance who is driving or take a taxi both ways.
What the Road Is Actually Like
Paved in the sections that matter, packed sand in others, and potholed after heavy rain. It is fine. Carts are built for it and everyone drives at a speed that makes the surface irrelevant.
If you have hired something low slung and precious, you will care. Almost nobody does, which is part of why the golf cart is the island's actual vehicle rather than a tourist gimmick. We put the full case in the cart, car or bike comparison.
Before you ask
Common Questions
Yes, there is a toll on the Sir Barry Bowen bridge for golf carts heading north. Every rental we do includes the bridge pass, so it costs you nothing on top, but confirm that with whoever you rent from.
Around thirty to forty minutes depending on traffic at the bridge and how much of the road has been resurfaced lately. It is not a fast drive and it is not meant to be.
No. Carts stay on the roads and the sand streets. Salt water and soft sand wreck the drivetrain, you will get stuck, and it is not permitted. Every rental company on the island will tell you the same thing.
Much of it is, and the paved section has been extended over the years. There are still stretches of packed sand and there are potholes after heavy rain. A golf cart handles all of it at golf cart speed.
Yes. A valid driving licence from your home country, carried with you. It is checked more often than visitors expect, particularly on the road north.
Keep planning
More San Pedro Guides
Written by people who live here and rent carts to visitors every day. See all 10 guides.
Things to Do
The reef, the beaches, the ruins and the bars, and roughly what each one costs you in time and money.
Read guideBest Time to Visit
Month by month on weather, sea conditions, crowds and prices, including what hurricane season really means here.
Read guideGetting Here
Plane or water taxi from Belize City, what each costs in time, and how to get from the terminal to your hotel.
Read guideSecret Beach
How to get there, how long it takes, what it is actually like now, and when to go to avoid the crowd.
Read guideBeaches and Reef
Hol Chan, Shark Ray Alley, the barrier reef, and why the beach in front of your hotel has sea grass.
Read guideWhat to Rent
An honest comparison of every way of getting around the island, including when not to rent anything.
Read guideThe whole island
Bridge pass included, north to south
Every rental includes the toll for the north crossing, so the run to Secret Beach costs you nothing beyond fuel. Free delivery and collection anywhere on the island.